Working a smaller size and realize the yoke is too shallow? And before you go any further, obssessed in the quest of a free pattern, The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. This seemed like a perfect opportunity to talk a bit about different types of seamless construction as there are 4 different seamless methods used in Dovestone Hills. If you are knitting from the top down the raglan seams are all increases, but if you were knitting bottom-up, they would be decreases. I have a difficult time picking up the neckline where the front increases have been. Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch Please confirm you want to block this member. Raglan Construction A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques. You can definitely think critically about the instructions you encounter in patterns you follow or you could use it to write your own knitting pattern. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. The style is was named for Fitzroy Somerset, Lord Raglan, the commander-in-chief of forces during the Crimean War. 2) Each human body follows some geometrical principles and ignores others. Knowing your gauge is measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. As noted above, the shoulder width creates some space for the neck - equal space in the front and back. A raglan can be worked either bottom-up (with decreases to shape the pieces) or top-down (with increases to shape the pieces). Now that weve checked out some of the benefits of this construction method, lets look at some drawbacks. I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. The more complicated a design gets, the more challenging it is to make into a formula, and so many of the designs coming out these days are pretty complicated. The pattern is written as if the pattern stitch is stockinette stitch. You can tell a sweater has raglan construction when you see 2 diagonal lines on each side (and on both the front and the back), starting at the inside neck and ending at the underarm. The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. Bonus tip: Our bust line isnt at the underarm. Want to go deeper on front neck shaping? Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. Today we are going to look into the pros and cons of knitting a sweater with raglan shoulder shaping and give you some pattern ideas to try out this method. Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? On the left side, in red, there are two arrows showing raglan length. Lightweight Pullover by Hannah Fettig, Sweater Construction Methods: Set-In Sleeves, Sweater Construction Methods: Dolman Style, Sweater Construction Methods: Circular Yoke, Sweater Construction Methods: Contiguous Set-In Sleeve, Sweater Construction Methods: Saddle Shoulder. adventurous. If the pattern already has them distributed in compound shaping, add your new decreases evenly. Great for those new to crochet! the shaping formula - YouTube Instead of avoiding those patterns, what if you put in some neck shaping of your own? To counter them, add a few extra decreases in the yoke. Welcome back to the Sweater Construction series! The top one is worked with short rows, the bottom is worked with bind-offs. raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. This takes care of the extra fabric in the armhole area that can arise from the traditional raglan. Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. 7 sizes; XS-3XL Part One: Getting Started . If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. If you are accustomed to It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. What about when I get to the next sleeve? Throughout this Interweave series on raglan fit and construction, all contributors have proclaimed their love for top-down raglans and raglans in general. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. Double-point needles or circular needles in the sizes Focus on Fit: How to Refine Sweater Fit with Compound Raglan Shaping Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. How to Knit Lifted Increases (They're Almost Invisible!) - Yay For Yarn I will definitely take a closer look at your spreadsheets. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. Either print and draw right on, or highlight cells to illustrate your dream shaping. Have a full bust and tum? Any questions? Knitting is about 90% (don't quote me on that %, it's an estimate) math, and that's what Excel is great at, so it's pretty natural, I think, to use them together. Sign up here! This blog post from Amy Herzog is a fantastic resource for different neckline shapes and the shaping rates that create them. Tell us, in the comments! Raglan Construction - A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to I am still wondering about when I am knitting a cardigan with raglan sleeves and Im using an increase like a make one which leans right or left, which one would I do first, the M1R or M1L? Since I'm not acquainted with the formula you use yet, I'm not sure if the Improv: Basic pattern for a top-down seamless sweater Half of our bottom neck stitches come before the marker. I prefer to turn to the wrong side of the work and using a Cable Cast-On, which is lovely and firm. If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. Ive spent a lot of time studying it, making a few of my own tweaks and I now have much greater confidence that what Im about to knit is more than just a shot in the dark! The bottom up method is generally seamed together but the seaming is actually very simple because each area to be seamed is a straight line rather than the curved line of a traditional set in sleeve. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. The arm follows the same pattern, although to a less extreme degree. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. March 8, 2012 - Lauren. NOTE: subtract F from this number to get the number you are increasing to during the raglan shaping. wherever the pattern say stockinette stitch. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. For the hips an a-line shape should work well. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits Any. It is acceptable to work a few extra rows into the The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. You can work those short rows right up against each other the same way you can work one decrease every row when you bind off. E.g. 5 Top-Down Sweater Styles Explained | Interweave Lets dive in and check out why you might want to try knitting a raglan style sweater! Increases are made around four fixed points. Thank you for the information it is very helpful. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. We change narrow dramatically from the full bust to the mid-chest, more slowly through the mid-chest, and fast again as we approach the neck. Or be a bit Ex: If your trim will be 1 of ribbing, add 1 to this depth. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. How to improvise a top-down sweater, Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping I just ordered Your first book. And it addresses the difference between the stitch gauge and the row gauge which very rarely are equal. Top-Down Knitting - Elizabeth Smith Knits Hi, everyone! Whats your favorite sweater style to knitraglan, set-in sleeves, dolman? The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. These tutorials and the mention of your Craftsy course have given me more tools and confidence that I may actually make a decent go at making one of these designs! There's some mythology out there about how front neck shaping rates can 'raise the neckline too fast.' The compound raglan allows for a more flattering fit because the rate of increase varies to more accurately follow the shape of the body. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Regards, Sarah. Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! You probably then want to add a few more underarm increases to bring the bust size up to what you need. About the type of fit. Thank you so much for this tutorial! This can mean that you will be limited to yarn choices that include some structure and elasticity themselves, such as wool or wool blends, and plied yarn. The reason for this is so that the pattern can be continued down the body when you no longer need raglan increases. Isnt that cool? Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top-down and involves a long, slanted (or sometimes curved) seam running from the neck to the underarm. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. Youll need to add one more row to resolve all those double stitches, so the formula is: Rows worked in raglan shaping per pattern - neck shaping rows - 1. The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. We dont reach our widest measurement until several inches below the underarm (and the larger you are, the truer that tends to be!). I was just wondering if you have any thoughts on this matter. I love the lace. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. IMO. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. This gives each section a triangular shape. Very nice overview of techniques! (how scary is that?) Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. Any input would be greatly appreciated. We know well need to close the gap between our bottom neck stitches and our neck stitches by eliminating stitches as we work towards the neck. Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. I have fallen for more than a few of your designs but was intimidated because I am considered a new-ish knitter. This gives you 8 increases (or decreases). If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. Round to an even number. Looking forward to meeting you in September. At the underarm, a few stitches To get from raglan depth to yoke depth, you need to add in one-half of the shoulder stitches. Since I didn't shape out the last three stitches, and there's a final row to resolve the double stitches, the top one appears to have a gentle curve. Up until now, these patterns have only been available as part of the book, but over the coming weeks, Ill be releasing the individual patterns one at a time! To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. Custom Raglan Cardi Knit-Along Week 3: Adding Waist Shaping The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan Thank you so much if you can help! PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . sweater, but you need to know something about what you are doing. try to match someone else's gauge. Here are four different ways to make raglan increases in knitting. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. With adding these instructions I will be able to knit easy Things that fits well.Dorothee. How would I increase these areas to get about a 2inch increase? The compound raglan allows for a more flattering fit because the rate of increase varies to more accurately follow the shape of the body. The Audubon Shrug is truly special. the top. How to knit a compound raglan - KT's Slow Closet - Fringe Association As Jennifer Wood explains in Refined Knits (and further explicated in a helpful emailthanks, Jennifer! To this measurement, add your trim depth. You will also need to have stitch holders #7 How to Knit Raglan Shaping, Knitting For Beginners, Sheila - YouTube Raglan - Knittingfool Sara Dudek similarly acknowledged her appreciation of such sweaters when she dove deeply into design considerations for knitters and crocheters. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other body or the arm length. Sweater Construction Methods: Raglan - 30 DAY SWEATER You can get that same weird built-up neckline look from a sweater with or without short rows or neck shaping. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. Somewhat Stretchy : Raglan pattern Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Caelius is the sweater in Dovestone Hills that uses this shoulder construction method. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. This was traditionally the most common method of top-down knitting as its very easy to knit. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. This will be neck shaping rows. Several other designers, following Maggie Righettis advice from Sweater Design in Plain English, similarly praise compound shaping and its endless flexibility. Those stitches sit right across the top of the neck, and contribute to front and back neck depth. However, generally, a neckline is more comfortable to wear if the front is a little lower than the back. The 2 wider cones become the garments front and back, while the narrower cones form sleeves. Overall the lack of structure particularly at the shoulders can make for a less durable sweater. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. The shaping of the sleeve must match . It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. My goal is to give you some room to breathe! In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. casting on about 25 stitches and working about 25 rows. Swap a round crew for a v-neck by choosing a deeper neckline and binding off just 3 sts at the bottom. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion of that measurement., This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from the top. Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. In a raglan, stitches from the sleeve contribute to neck depth (see illustration below). Thank you so much. A raglan has a true yoke, often worked in one piece, and is particularly suited to working in the round. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. You can use cm - it all works the same. If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. It can be helpful to think of it as turning away from stitches, almost as if we had placed them on waste yarn. Knit Design TipsHow I design a top-down raglan pullover Multiply neck shaping depth by your row gauge to figure out how many rows youll be working this shaping over. Ysolda Teague explains how she calculated her compound raglan yoke for Stripy, a multi-part tutorial on fit. Is it possible to cut the armhole and add a rhombus or some similar piece? I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. All of the shaping is the same, only instead of turning away from stitches, youll bind them off. having a pattern that spells everything out to the letter Might be easiest starting with a pattern? They look a little different at the top because of the final bind-off, but that difference disappears when you work in the round. Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. 1. Generally I use M1R before and M1L after but reversing it works fine if you keep it consistent. Because all the stitches stay on the needle, there would be a large gap between stitches. (8 sts inc at raglans, 2 at front neck, per inc row) BTWmany of the Dovestone patterns are on my project list :). or if you are a beginner this pattern may not meet all your needs. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. A Full Bust Adjustment for Knit Raglan Tops (Option 1) This is post 7 of 7 in the series Sweater Construction Methods. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Your continued efforts to share knowledge is a treasure and so encouraging to knitters of all experiences. Heres the thing - if youre used to working the same shaping all the way from the neck to the underarm, you may have noticed that creates a very straight line, and fundamentally is making a rectangular pyramid.